I’ve been to two other continents and 22 countries, but nothing in those other places has been more beautiful and exciting to me as the majestic Grand Canyon in Arizona, USA. The Canyon is so big that its size is that of the state of Rhode Island. Now that’s a wow factor; it was for me, anyway. There are all kinds of interesting facts to read about the Canyon so I won’t bore you with them here.
After a short visit to the Grand Canyon that coincided with a business trip I was on, I decided I had to visit it again when time wasn’t an issue. I planned in my mind, right then, I was one day taking a mule ride to the floor of the Canyon.
Well, roll up a few years and voilà, retirement was at my door and the plans to reserve my mule ride were in place. I had to reserve my spot to descent the Grand Canyon eight months in advance. There are longer wait times, depends on time of year and weather forecast, and there could be other factors. It’s a very popular way to explore the Canyon, so be aware! Also, you’re not taking that exciting, adrenaline-seeking ride if the scales tip in the > 200 lb mark. That’s the weight person limit, so if it’s your desire and you’re over the weight limit, start that diet. At the weigh in area, I saw a few very disappointed looks; couples deciding if the lighter weight person was still making the trip.
A funny situation occurred and I must share this story. A couple was seated earshot of me at dinner. I was solo and tried not to be nosey but couldn’t help overhear the couple’s discussion about the dessert menu. The husband was complaining because he wanted a piece of pie but his wife said, “no!” She reminded him, maybe those few pounds he still had to lose had not been gone and eating pie could prevent him from the ride down the canyon. I had an idea I thought could help with the situation, but how was I going to join in their conversation when it was none of my business. Well, I decided I would make a trip to the bathroom and on the return trip I would make eye-contact with one of them and perhaps begin a conversation. That worked and paved the way for discussion. I pretended not to know of their discussion about weight. I told the couple that I’d checked in for the mule ride and how excited I was to be doing the ride. The wife mentioned they hadn’t checked in yet because of concern with the weight limit for her husband. He quickly chimed in with, “I’ve been dieting and she won’t let me have a piece of pie.” I suggested a test weigh-in. “Just get weighted but don’t officially check-in until you know your numbers. If you are 200 lbs or less, then officially weigh in. That way you can eat whatever you want. The process only happens once.” He was so thankful for the idea. He took me up on the suggestion. He met the goal, weighed in and became officially checked in for the ride. He ordered pie.
So heed this tip, if you’re tipping the scale.
More Canyon…
My favorite vacation to-date! A mule ride down the south rim of the Grand Canyon to Phantom Ranch. I arrived a day early as suggested and planned for an extra night after the ride to recoup and refresh. After arriving at the lodge in my rental car, I checked-in, tossed my luggage in my room and headed out exploring. I acquainted myself with the check-in area for the mule ride and then the dining area before taking in the beauty of the Canyon. The most awesome, wondrous sight I’ve ever laid my eyes on was once again right there in front of me. I was quickly reminded of its beauty and vastness as I was standing there ogling and remembering. I had once before visited the Canyon after an extended stay in Arizona from a business trip. However, my Canyon visit was just only hours long, but those few short hours would forever hook me and I wanted more. Since I’m an adventure junkie, my future trip would involve a mule ride. Here I was.
After a not so good night’s sleep because of all that excitement and nervousness about the next morning, I was up, dressed, and at breakfast, way before I would normally think about such activity. Off to the waiting area I went. Standing there, watching people gather together as they greeted one another from family groups to friend meet-ups for the trip of a lifetime. A woman makes eye-contact with me and we nod at one another and then she strikes up a conversation. It as obvious I was solo. Her name is Dawn and she was with her grown daughter Wendy, brother Hurley, friend Sherry and others for a reunion ride to Phantom Ranch. Dawn introduced me to her group and announced I was joining them. I was, from that point on, adopted into the family.
Before heading out to meet the mules, we were all provided rain gear (in case of foul weather) and a picnic lunch with drink for a lunch break we would make along with way. We were assigned dry bags to place those items along with our personal items for our overnight stay at Phantom Ranch. Pack mules would carry these items. They would also carry the U.S. mail bag. Mail service was provided to all that visited the ranch, and it was a necessary service for the permanent workers that lived there.
Dawn, Wendy, and Sherry are horse women and there was no real learning curve or challenges for them to bear. For me, however, it was a different story. I am no horse woman and I wasn’t sure what to expect.
We were soon off to the corral where the mules were gathered. We met them, learned about them, and were given a lesson on how to ride them. Those huge mules were intimidating to me. I wasn’t going to show I was scared, though, but I was indeed nervous. But, I was there to ride a mule down the Canyon and that’s what I was going to do. The guides were awesome with delivering the detailed instruction of mule riding and handling. Mules were assigned out to each of us. Wouldn’t you know, I’d get a mule with a mussel on her, named Betsy. The only mule with a muzzle on, mind you! I immediately asked one of the guides who looked like Wilford Brimley (American actor best known for his role in the movie Cocoon), “why does Betsy have on a muzzle?” (Mules are known to nip at you if they have a mind to; was this the case, I immediately thought to myself). The answer given was “Betsy likes to grab and eat any leaves or brush we may come across growing out of or between rocks and boulders. The muzzle keeps that activity under control.” I was asked if I thought I could handle the reins for any stubbornness Betsy may try with me. Handling her could be challenging and I would need a firm grip on the reins and to keep her head up to ward off foolishness. Mules are very strong and want things their way. Hence, the saying we’ve all heard, “stubborn as a mule.” I certainly wasn’t going to say or act as if I couldn’t handle that mule, so my response was, “no worries, I can handle Betsy. You found the right rider for her.”
Part of the instruction were explanations of how mules traverse the Canyon. They are very sure-footed, strong, and take to a routine naturally and steadfastly. We were to just hold onto the reins and/or the saddle horn and allow the mules to do what they do. For no reason, were we ever to dismount from our mules without direction to do so from our guides. The trails are tight, the switchbacks sharp and steep.
Interesting how that instruction was spewed out several times as a reminder as we all proceeded out of the corral, one mule behind the next. One guide in front leading our group and another at the rear to keep a watchful eye on us all as we moved along.
Off we went, me displaying the biggest chessy cat smile anyone could conjure up. My mule riding mates were tickled by my expressions and commented to me on how they enjoyed watching me have so much fun.
Let me tell you—mule riding is very jarring in the descending motion. Gravity is pushing you downward as the mule steps carefully taking small steps as it navigates and maneuvers through the terrain. Mules are known to be dainty steppers and they put their rear feet in exactly the same spot where their front feet have been. That sure-footedness keeps the chance of slipping less likely. The perfect animal for rough terrain. The mules know what to do and they don’t care how much your bottom is smacking the saddle as they move along. I readjusted my seating position along with the pressure of my legs against the mule’s body and my feet position in the stirrups more than I could count, but still I had the time of my life! I held onto the saddle horn with one hand and snapped pictures with the other. I was in my glory! I will say, though, I was very happy when it was lunch time. That break was wonderful; just what I needed.
Seven plus miles descending to Phantom Ranch was the day’s agenda. Single file, following the mule in front of you is how we proceeded. We riders really didn’t need to do anything to direct the mules, they knew what to do. This is what they do–day after day, trip after trip. Whenever we would stop for a potty break or for a guide announcement about an interesting spot or rock formation, the mules would pull up alongside one another, just like cars pulling into the angle parking spaces at Kmart. This angled positioning made it easier for the mules to back out and begin moving along. In fact, I would comment to my mule Betsy, “pull into our Kmart parking space.”
The mule riders that were in the front of the line would be at a different part of the switchback than riders toward the middle or back of the line. Often as we were switchbacking down the Canyon, we would be looking down at riders on the trail that were in the front position. Something funny happened on the trail I must share…one of the mules was crossing the creek (some riders had already crossed it) all of a sudden without warning, a mule just got down from a standing position to lying its belly in the creek. Thank goodness the rider didn’t panic and was holding on tight to the saddle horn as the mule clumsily laid down. We all were taken aback a bit by that surprise stunt. After a few minutes we all busted out in laughter from the antics of that mule. And, that mule was stubborn about getting back up and moving along. “Strange things happen on the trail,” shouted one of our guides. It’s why we give so many instructions, just in case the unexpected happens.”
After a long day of trail riding we reached Phantom Ranch. I was pleased to learn the trail bosses did the unloading of the pack mules and whatever care they required, such as feeding and watering. I was beat and really didn’t want to play a part in that role. Fortunately, there were anxious volunteers that wanted to help.
We all went to our prospective cabins or bunkhouse to rest and get ready for dinner. Just before we all separated to go about our free time, one last instruction echoed from one of the guides…”make sure you place your boots upside down so scorpions don’t crawl in. We have plenty of those around and you don’t want to be bitten by one.” Just what I needed to hear!
Dinner was family style and wonderfully prepared. We gathered in the dining area which happened to also be the post office and canteen areas. Dinner was one big, happy engaging family. We all took turns discussing our adventurous day and some shared anecdotes. I turned in for an early night, directly after dinner. I, of course, placed my boots upside down and searched my bed for scorpions.
Day 2. Breakfast was served in the dining area and again family style. You didn’t want for anything, as everything was prepared and served; something for everyone’s taste.
After that long, hard descent to the ranch on that first day, it left me stiff and sore. Getting up and moving about after resting awhile was more of a challenge than I expected. But, it was a good sore, if that makes any sense.
We were heading back up the Canyon this day, but we were taking a different trail. It would be a steeper ride but a much shorter one.
We gathered at the corral for the day’s instructions. One of the guides asked for a volunteer to carry the mail back to the lodge. My hand went up so fast no one else had a chance to volunteer. I was a mail woman for a day. I carried the U.S. mail on Betsy’s saddle horn with my own postcards I had filled out, addressed, and stamped. It was just a cool thing to do. The mail that comes and goes as a courtesy to guests get a special marking that it was “mailed by mule.”
As we were ascending the Canyon on our way back to rim’s edge, we got to witness what few people do…a string of pack mules with packers freighting supplies to the ranch. We could see and hear them coming well before they reached us. Under the direction of our lead guide, one mule was directed to pull in on the wide side of the trail to allow for the mule train to have room to pass us. All was needed was the first mule to get into proper position and each mule parked itself again just like the angled parking at Kmart. Here came the packers whistling and shouting something at the mules for them to step it up. Before long, a dust cloud was formed and moving faster than I thought mules could move, as the mule train whizzed by. What a sight to see! It looked as if cowboys were rustling cattle.
After about a 5 hour trip up to the rim we had finished our our journey. We were greeted with passenger vans to transport us back to the lodge and horse trailers to transport the mules.
A trip I’ll never forget! A blessing bestowed to me being a part of a wonderful family and group of friends that I continue to be friends with to this day. A lifetime trip with lifetime friendships made.
Hope you enjoyed!
